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Chef Chemel to Open New Palo Alto Restaurantby Stett Holbrook on Jan 21, 2010Ex-Chez TJ chef Bruno Chemel has plans to open Baumé, a new restaurant in Palo Alto that aims to be a showcase for molecular gastronomy. Chemel, as you may recall, left Chez TJ last month after a dispute with owner George Aviet over his inability to garner two Michelin stars. The restaurant had two stars before Chemel came on board in 2008, but dropped a star under his tenure. Chemel wouldn't go into details about his departure, but word is he didn't feel Aviet was providing the kind of support necessary to take the restaurant to the next level. For his part, Aviet said he didn't feel Chemel had the chops to earn a second star. Baumé is set to open Jan. 28 on California Avenue, in the corner location formerly occupied by Nora’s Cafe. The restaurant is named after French chemist Antoine Baumé and will showcase Chemel's technically precise, cerebral style of cooking. Molecular gastromy brings elements of chemistry into the kitchen to manipulate and prod food into new directions using often unconventional ingredients. Examples of molecular gastronomy include flash freezing with liquid nitrogen, use of transglutaminases or "meat glue," slow cooking in vacuum-packed bags, and whipping up foams with lecithin. Molecular gastronomy restaurants are few in the Bay Area but standouts elsewhere include El Bulli in Spain, Moto and Alinea in Chicago and WD-50 in New York City. At Baumé, Chemel will offer a mix of Californian and Asian influences on a prix fixe menu. And it won't come cheap. A five-course meal will go for $78. A 10 course meal will be $78 and 15 courses $108. For all three options, a flight of wine by the glass is available for an additional $50. Signature items will include carrot sphere and spiced cucumber; beets coloriage with warm goat cheese and aged balsamic; slow poached striped bass with daikon, yuzu miso and dashi broth; prime beef filet with chanterelles and Perigord truffle jus; and "minute sponge," encapsulated seventy two percent warm chocolate and pear. Former Chez TJ pastry chef Ryan Shelton left the restaurant with Chemel and will join him at Baumé. If nothing else, the Chez TJ dust up may bring some interesting dining to Silicon Valley's staid dining scene. I'll be watching and I'm sure the folks Michelin will, too. by Stett Holbrook on Jan 21, 2010 |
 Chef Bruno Chamel (top left) with the staff of his new endeavor, Baume. |
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