Al Castello Ristorante & Pizzeria

About

In the 408 area code we are blessed with many fine Chinese restaurants, Indian restaurants and expensive Italian restaurants. But for moderately priced Italian-American fare, we are looking mainly at pizza.


It is a common problem. Thanks to the Wall Street Journal wine writers for complaining recently about ``the lack of that staple of our youth: the inexpensive, family-oriented Italian joint with the red-and-white checkered tablecloths and the straw-covered bottle of Chianti on each table.''


Lack no longer. Al Castello Ristorante Italiano in Campbell, formerly Al Castello Ristorante & Pizzeria,  is just that sort of place, although the bottles on the tables are San Pellegrino water rather than Chianti. But from veal piccata to ``Piatti Vegetariani,'' voluminous dinner entrees top out at $13.95.


Genial chef-owner Giovanni Rossi took over a year ago. The house-made soups, ethereal meatballs and fried calamari of the previous owner are still there, while Rossi is also lightening up the fare, though not the portions.


``To be honest,'' said our server one night, ``you're ordering too much.'' When was the last time a server undercut his own tip? Even so, we took a lot of food home.


A steaming heap of calamari ($7.95) was so inviting that one companion who'd never had calamari, fearing the tentacles, enjoyed it. Lightly floured, deep-fried and then tossed with dabs of fresh garlic and parsley, the inner shellfish stays hot. Rossi uses jumbo calamari (a sustainable seafood), which is thicker than most, so the pieces don't toughen up.


Soups of the day and sauces are made from scratch. Chicken vegetable soup ($4.95) may remind many diners of Grandma, with a soothing broth stocked with shredded tender chicken, carrots, celery and onions. Minestrone had chard and zucchini, but also a greasy film.