Repurposed wood booths and a remix of classic American dishes make Eureka! the culinary equivalent of American sportswear: casual but slightly sophisticated.

The chain out of Redlands is opening locations in both Cupertino and Mountain View (the latter coming later this month), and the “Made in America” approach sticks to traditional dishes rather than joining the fusion trends. Meanwhile, the bar program includes microbreweries specifically selected for each restaurant’s location.

Truffle fries are a staple at every New American eatery, and often the truffle flavor is barely noticeable. Not so at Eureka. The large mound of fries ($9.50) gets a sprinkle of truffle salt, and then there’s truffle oil and Havarti in a splendid cheese sauce. This is easily the best dish here.

Once a hated childhood vegetable for many, brussels sprouts have also become ubiquitous on menus in recent years. The Crispy Glazed Brussel Sprouts ($8), with herb oil and macadamia nuts, dress up the tender sprouts. Also not to be missed: the Osso Bucco Riblets ($10), which are braised in sherry; the Golden Ale Mussels ($13); and Lollipop Corn Dogs ($8).

Appetizers are available at discounted prices during “Hoppy Hour,” from 2-6pm, when beers and wine are $2 off. Wine is half off on Tuesdays and a live band plays on Thursdays, making a good formula for an after-work hangout—especially since the Cupertino location is conveniently located in the middle of Apple’s sprawled out campuses.

Beers are a particular point of pride here, as the beverage director has selected local American craft beers for each location, with the exception of Hangar 24 Brewery from Redlands. This brand is carried at all locations in an ode to the restaurant’s roots. Wines are also chosen regionally and whiskey from 50 small-batch distilleries are used in their specialty cocktails.

I sampled the Hemingway ($10) with rum, grapefruit, maraschino cherry and lime—all nicely balanced with layers of flavor. The Industry ($11) is also a good option for those who prefer tequila and a good dose of cilantro.

All these drinks are to be paired with the restaurant’s other pride and joy: burgers. There is a Veggie Beet Burger ($12) and Turkey Tortilla Burger ($12) for those who don’t want classic red meat options, but for those of us jonesing for meaty goodness, the Bison Burger ($16) comes with a topping of bacon-infused jalapeño jam, charbroiled tri-color peppers and melted smoked mozzarella. Because bison is a leaner meat, it makes for a cleaner, slightly gamey patty that goes well with all the toppings and toasted bun.

I prefer a fattier burger myself and couldn’t pass up the Bone Marrow Burger ($17, Limited availability) with porcini butter, mustard aioli and roasted Roma tomato. A bite in the middle reveals a pop of rich marrow and beef. The Fresno Fig Burger ($12.50) and Jalapeno Egg Burger ($12.50) are also popular options.

Housemade desserts ($7 each) are a rarity for chains these days, but Eureka! Has three different options. The Butterscotch Rum Pudding pairs sprinkled sea salt with sweet, rich caramel sauce. I ate every scoop. The Americana Apple Crisp and Chocolate Tortes come with vanilla ice cream and are sure to satisfy a sweet tooth on hot summer days.

Eureka! has a promising future in the new Main Street Cupertino plaza and Castro Street in Mountain View. Craft brews, tasty bites and convenient locations are made to order for Silicon Valley.

Eureka!
19369 Stevens Creek Blvd., Cupertino.
191 Castro St., Mountain View.
$$, American (New)