The rustic-industrial atmosphere at Vino Vino intentionally conjures a sense of contrast. Rough-hewn wood furniture, smooth concrete tabletops and a steel, arc-shaped wine tap behind the bar are all meant to counter wine’s stereotypically stuffy image.

In fact, with two large televisions tuned to sports, one of them a projection TV suspended in front of the kitchen, there’s a sense that this spot approaches the intersection of a wine bar and a sports hangout. And why not—Vino Vino, one of the first tenants at San Pedro Square Market, shows the influence of the nearby Shark Tank, but that mostly adds to the casual atmosphere, (though the glare from the projection screen does dominate the low lighting).

If the decor is meant to show contrast, Vino Vino’s menu is all about harmony, complementing the 13 wines on tap, weighted more toward reds, and roughly two dozen more wines by the bottle. Wines on tap are generally available by the bottle as well.

A well-rounded selection of appetizers, salads and panini combines comfort food with elements of typical wine accompaniments like bread and cheese, and the creative, mostly light dishes transcend pub grub.

The perfette crostini ($5.50) pairs perfette pecorino cheese and hot red pepper jelly on a toasted slice of baguette. The pepper jelly has little kick, but the single arugula leaf that tops each toast lends a pleasant sharpness, while a drizzle of fig walnut balsamic adds a sweet note.

My companion had the smoked salmon panini ($9), which he said was light yet satisfying. Fresh mozzarella, basil pesto aioli, tomato and mixed greens accompany the smoked salmon on a toasted baguette.

I ordered the grilled truffle cheese ($9), which had a prominent earthy flavor thanks to a generous amount of Sottocenere (a cheese with truffles). Little mushrooms were mixed in with rich, slightly salty cheese and the bread was grilled to a crunchy golden brown.

All paninis are served with a side salad, possibly one of the best salads—side or otherwise—that I’ve had. At many restaurants, side salads seem an afterthought, but this small bowl of mixed greens was dressed with subtle vinaigrette. And there was just enough dressing to coat the leaves and give them an extra touch of flavor.

A nutella and butter panini ($5.50; optional strawberries are an extra $1.50) ended the meal on a sweet, gooey note. The filling’s combination of two thick spreads can make you thirsty, but the peanut and nutty chocolate were nicely set off by buttered, grilled sourdough bread. In keeping with the playful spirit of this sandwich, it might have been served better by cutting the crusts off, because they came out rather chewy.