The art of the American chicken wing is a fairly concentrated craft. Consumer preferences abound: some like them breaded, some prefer them au naturel. Some are very picky about fat-to-meat ratio; some gnaw them clean to the bone.

And that’s just the beginning. The public has expanded their palate since the days of predictable, Tabasco-butter hot sauces. Today, a handful of wing places carry everything from lemon butter chicken wings to Caribbean jerk, to the point that one has to wonder why this part of the chicken is so rampantly glorified.

I found the newest wing restaurant in East San Jose. Those who live and dine in the South Bay know that many of the big food trends originate in the East side. A mecca of closely linked cultures, it’s impossible not to see one’s food in another’s, to find familiar and arresting flavors without really knowing why. And it all works together like one big culinary conglomerate, assuring longevity for many of the restaurants that entertain a variety of ethnicities on a day-to-day basis.

I was excited to see two culinary factions converge—the American chicken wing and the Asian style of cookery—at LOL Chicken on East Capitol Expressway. On the menu are traditional Korean favorites and combination platters, but the distinguishing edge of LOL is its Asian-inspired wing offerings and pairings with yogurt soju, a blend of yogurt, alcohol and lemon lime soda that is ubiquitous in Korea.

The wings are tossed in a choice of sauce—options include spicy garlic and honey lemon—and are served with sticks of fried rice cakes and a choice of two sides. The restaurant has been open for about a week now and is bringing all kinds of wing aficionados to their tables. They’ve certainly supplanted themselves in a community hub, with East San Jose at their beck and call and Andrew Hill and Silver Creek High Schools a stone throw’s away.